A lighthearted but informative comparison for newbies
When you’re starting out in stained glass, you’re quickly introduced to a very real fork in the creative road: lead came or copper foil? These two techniques are the bedrock of stained glass artistry — and while some folks are firmly in one camp or the other, the truth is, each method has its own time, place, and charm.
This article isn’t about taking sides. It’s about helping you — the curious beginner — understand what these methods are, what they’re good for, and which one might be right for your next project.
What’s the Real Difference, Anyway?
Let’s start simple:
Lead came uses H-shaped channels of lead that the glass fits into. Think of it like creating a puzzle: cut glass, insert it into the came, and solder the joints.
Copper foil involves wrapping each piece of glass in adhesive-backed copper tape, then soldering them together to form the piece.
Both methods result in beautiful stained glass, but they differ in technique, tools, and outcomes.
Tools & Techniques: What You’ll Need
Lead Came Toolkit:
- Lead came strips (various profiles)
- Lead knife or came saw
- Stretching jig (to firm up the came)
- Horseshoe nails or a layout jig to hold the pattern in place
- Cement and whiting for waterproofing and reinforcing the piece
- Flux
- Soldering iron
- Solder
Copper Foil Toolkit:
- Copper foil tape (various widths, commonly 7/32” or 1/4”)
- Burnishing tool (like a fid or lathekin)
- Flux
- Soldering iron
- Solder
The learning curve for copper foil is a bit gentler, which is why many beginners start there. Lead came requires understanding cementing and structural assembly, which can be messy and a bit intimidating — but deeply rewarding once mastered.
Project Types: When One Method Shines
Lead came is a go-to for:
- Large window panels
- Traditional or geometric designs
- Outdoor installations or architectural use
Copper foil shines for:
- Lamps (à la Tiffany)
- Intricate or organic designs with lots of curves
- Decorative panels with smaller glass pieces
If your project has tons of tight curves or detail work (think: dragonflies, flowers, ocean waves), foil is your friend. If you’re doing a cathedral-style window or a large geometric panel, lead might be your hero.
Pros and Cons With No Sugar-coating
Lead Came Pros:
- Very strong and durable
- Easier to get straight lines
- Has a classic, architectural aesthetic
- Faster for large-scale work
Lead Came Cons:
- Less flexibility for complex designs
- Cementing is messy and time-consuming
- Requires extra tools and safety precautions (lead safety!)
Copper Foil Pros:
- Amazing detail and design flexibility
- Smooth solder lines and sleek finishes
- Easier to get started — fewer tools needed
- Great for smaller, decorative projects
Copper Foil Cons:
- More labor-intensive for big projects
- Can be structurally weaker without reinforcement
- Foil can lift or break down over time if not sealed well
Lead Came: The Traditional Workhorse
There’s something timeless about lead came. It’s the stuff of cathedrals and chapels, of historic restorations and traditional panels. Artists who work with lead often talk about the meditative rhythm of cutting, fitting, stretching, and assembling. The came gives the piece its structure — its bones.
If you’re designing something that needs to withstand wind, weight, or weather, lead came is a smart choice.
Copper Foil: The Creative Freestyler
Copper foil gives you freedom. Want to make a whimsical jellyfish panel with 50 delicate curves? Foil it. Need to make a custom nightlight or jewelry box? Foil again.
The copper tape molds to your glass shapes like a second skin, making soldering more fluid and allowing for tighter control over the design. Many artists love the fluidity and expressive potential of this technique.
Plus, if you’re making Tiffany-style lamps, copper foil is the only way to go.
What About Combining the Two?
Yes — it’s possible to combine methods!
Some artists use lead came for the borders of a project to give structural integrity, then foil the interior pieces to allow for intricate designs. This hybrid method isn’t common for beginners, but once you get the hang of both systems, it opens up exciting design opportunities.
Which One’s Right for You (For Now)?
Here’s the honest truth: you can’t choose wrong.
Start with what feels more accessible:
Want faster results, less fiddling, and that classic look? Go lead.
Want detail, creativity, and smaller projects? Go foil.
Your first few projects should be about building confidence and having fun, not worrying about technique purity.
Eventually, most stained glass artists try both. You might fall in love with one and stick with it, or you might bounce back and forth depending on the project.
Think of them as different dialects in the same beautiful language.
The Learning Curve
If you’re nervous about starting, here’s what helps:
Classes. If there’s a local stained glass studio near you, take a beginner class in each method.
YouTube and tutorials. There are incredible step-by-step videos online for both methods.
Small projects. Don’t start with a window. Try a suncatcher or a nightlight cover.
The more you practice, the more your hands will learn the nuances of each technique.
In the end, the lead vs. foil debate isn’t about which is “better” — it’s about what suits your vision, your project, and your evolving style as an artist.
Lead came and copper foil are both tools in your creative toolbox. They offer different textures, possibilities, and personalities. As you grow in your glass journey, you’ll probably find yourself using both, depending on the mood, the purpose, and the project.
So grab your cutter, pick a pattern, and dive in. Whether you’re team foil, team lead, or team “I-have-no-idea-yet,” you’re on the right path.